So my current dosage is 1ml per day, every day. This is roughly in accordance with the instructions for TNC Complete, but is less than people have recommended here. The “normal” dose would be 1ml per 10 litres (i.e. 2ml for my tank) once a week, but the instructions say that you can dose this three times a week (i.e. 6ml per week for my tank) to approximate EI. What I do is dose 1ml every day, because I figure that a smaller, more frequent dose is better - and it’s easier to remember! So I’m dosing 7ml a week, which is slightly more than the instructions say. We won't be beaten on the premium quality of our live algaecultures, and surely not on the price either! The spectrum of your light output can make the tank look better also, much of this is down to what the user likes, but ADA Solar RGB really make the reds pop - seeing is believing. Is it possible that my plants are deficient in PO₄³⁻ or K? When I do water changes, I use about 10 litres of rainwater with 2 litres of tapwater to get the softness I want, so I’m not getting much contribution from the tap.

I've seen the ' All In One Solution' for dosing all the salts in one solution - if this works and you can just dose everything in one solution without issue then why isn't everyone doing this? Is there a downside or reason not to do this? Would you recommend it? We also have our own <" UKAPS nutrient calculator under development">, which should soon become available as a fully tested version. The other tank is more like a paludarium setup with a load of emersed growing plants, this is the only one that gets a fert dose after each water change.

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fertiliser compatibility - yes it's been talked about ever since Dennis Robert Hoagland started work on a combined fertiliser in the 1930's. You can find a few examples of fertiliser compatibility charts if you search on the internet. The primary reaction people fear in aquariums is that Fe EDTA will react with phosphorous in the presence of light. When an insoluble compound forms (like calcium phosphate or calcium sulphate) it prevents enough mobility to allow this to be taken up by plants. A problem that typically faces land fertigation is the reactions of certain ions with ammonia and sulphate salts.

The reason I want to switch over to DIY salts is cost, not really for this tank as it's not that expensive using TNC Complete for this tank but I'm about to set up a second tank and another larger third tank will be coming after that one, hence the interest in switching to DIY salts. All three tanks will be low light/low tech so the nutrient requirements should be pretty much the same per litre so I figured I'd get to grips with the dry salt mix now before I start the second tank.per 10 litres of tank water 3x per week will give a dose similar to the Estimative Index levels – Be sure to change 50% of your water once per week to remove organic waste from the plants. If your water is very soft? You probably will have some /www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/preload-dosing.58368/#post-570256']plant available iron[/URL]"> and your plants don't appear to show any iron deficiency symptoms. Add Aquarium volume, directly into the aquarium is set to default. Then fill in the number of grams of the salts you have. I’m minded to go with people’s advice and try upping to 2ml per day and see what happens. I read somewhere (it may have been one of Clive’s posts) that a phosphate shortage can interfere with nitrate uptake, so it seems worth a try to increase everything.